Considering the times we live in, it wasn’t hard to draw a parallel between Peter Do’s Spring 2025 collection, Grounded, and the solid brand concept he created in 2018 around thoughtful design.
Since the very beginning, Do’s idea of reimagining a new future in fashion was rooted in his vision of creating a lasting impact and his understanding of how culture reacts to clothing. Throughout it all, collaborations have been the soul behind his narrative—and the way he started his namesake brand, with friends taking the roles of business partner, press director, operations manager, and members of the design team in New York City.
Backstage after presenting the collection in the Musée Guimet at Paris Fashion Week, when asked about the starting point of the Spring 2025 journey, the designer shared: “It was a conversation between Philip Huang and I. He has been preserving this traditional Thai indigo technique for a few years now. And we have wanted to work together for a while.”
Founded in Brooklyn by Philip Huang and Chomwan Weeraworawit in 2016, Philip Huang is best known for using plant-based natural dyes to produce clothing that merges indigenous knowledge passed on for generations from artisans in the northeast of Thailand with contemporary design.
Drawing from the land and the elements and crafted by artisans in Sakon Nakhon, the Spring 2025 color palette was born of nature’s alchemy. “Everything was indigo dye from Thailand. Everything is super organic. I love the colors, these are rooted from where I am from, in this sort of tailoring meets New York,” added Do.
The Vietnamese-American signature tailoring always has New York in mind, heart, and soul. There was his minimal tailoring in pieces such as blazers and long dresses, oversized tailoring reimagined in cotton, bias-cut summer silk dresses, and a reinterpretation of traditional Vietnamese clothing in the form of long poplin pleated shirt dresses with tailored trousers for a modern twist. A garment-dyed “Vietnam” t-shirt, inspired by vintage souvenirs, rounds out the lineup alongside DIY upcycled t-shirts and hand-ripped jeans from past collections.
While new fabrics were developed to resemble crushed paper, floral motifs were drawn from Do's personal sketchbook and were translated on sheer Italian jersey. Many of the Spring 2025 designs—asymmetric shirts, for example—were styled both front and back, with adjustable ties offering a customizable fit, nodding to Do’s commitment to wearability.
As the models vanished behind an Asian art collection on view at Musée Guimet, a sense of fluidity and freedom hung in the air. “Freedom to me is the ability to wear whatever you like and be who you are,” concluded Do.
