Dear readers,
When I was 7, I carried around a purple, sparkly dolphin-clad notebook where I decided I'd write my first “novel.” It was a mystery novel, if you must ask, but that’s all I am legally allowed to tell you. And though it (thankfully) never left the confines of those glittery pages and my range for enigmatic stories was likely not high at this ripe, single-digit age, one thing is for sure: I found writing early in my life, and never lost it.
I write every day. I write when I’m excited, inspired, or Going Through Something. I write when it feels like I don’t know what else to do, or who else to tell. And I cook through the exact same feelings—whether I’m GTS-ing (catchy, right?) or simply content. I often think that what’s on the plate can only be as good as the intention, emotion, or story behind making it.
To me, cooking has always been its own form of writing a story, of telling mine. It’s a language I taught myself to be better understood. As the child of Indian immigrants, expression in the kitchen is what I’ve turned to in order to understand my own roots, when growing up detached from an Indian community made me question my sense of belonging rather than embrace the fact that I felt different. When nothing else made sense, the food my mom put on the table did. Cooking is my modality of creating community, serving others, sharing culture, and imparting joy. The kitchen is a place I find solace, no matter what is going on outside of it.
I have spent the last decade cultivating my voice in food through Dada Eats, hosting television shows, writing a cookbook, and sharing recipes with my community. My goal from day one, 10 years ago, has remained the same to this day: to be in service to others. I could not be more excited to serve you in a new way, for CULTURED. In this column, you can expect recipes, insider tips, and musings on all things culinary to support you in and outside of the kitchen.
I’m honored to contribute to a publication I’ve admired for so long, and thrilled to bring you along with me.
With love & gratitude,
Samah
SPRING CLEANING
“The activity of removing the dirt from things and places, especially in a house,” is what the Cambridge Dictionary defines as "cleaning." Fine. Great, actually. I can do that. With pleasure. Headphones, Dyson vacuum, Swiffer, and it’s SO on…
Ha, I always think around this time of year, when “spring cleaning” are the two words on every email subject line’s lips. But every season, I'm hit with the realization that tidying up your space can do only so much if you’re not dusting off the shelves of that other home—your body and mind—too. Cue more self-work.
I might be a chef, but I have never believed that feeding myself or others is simply about the physical, tangible contents of a plate. I’m sure that most, if not all, of those who have committed their lives to food and to the service of others would agree with me. Food is sustenance of course, but it's also a privilege, a conduit to experience, art, joy, memory, nostalgia, belonging, gathering, and community. And feeding oneself can come in so many different forms—what we're digesting, sure, but also what we are reading, consuming, believing, and surrounding ourselves with. What are the narratives we feed ourselves about ourselves, and are they even true? Food for thought, if you will.
I take the start of a new season as an invitation to reset my brain to factory mode, to sift through the contents of my mental fridge so that I can replace them with ones that aren't expired, and to think about how I want to show up in the kitchen and outside of it.
My hope is that you’ll find ways to pause at the start of this new season, and take stock of what you want (and don’t want) to bring into it—to challenge the limiting beliefs and narratives you may hold in your head as a means of survival, but which only serve as a hindrance to growth. And who would I be if I didn’t ask you to respectfully, kindly, bring that energy into the kitchen?
As a start, might I suggest the Tandoori Chickpea Tacos with a Sunflower-Scallion Chutney we'll be making today? They’re simple to put together, will bring enlightenment to the can of chickpeas in the back of your pantry screaming for attention, and are great for sharing, should you choose to (and I completely understand if you decide you’d rather not). I know that they’ll usher you into the new season with ease and comfort.
Wishing you a fresh start to the season in more ways than one…
SAMAH'S SEASONAL MOODBOARD
For each installment of this column, I’ll share a bit about what I’m eating, reading, and into—sometimes informed by my travels, sometimes not. This one will be a little Australia-leaning as I just got back from a trip to Melbourne a few weeks ago where I experienced SUMMER while everyone in New York was suffering. Sorry to rub it in… but it was great.
What I'm Reading: When I hopped onto my flight to New York after completing the 15-hour journey from Melbourne to LA a few days prior, I had Ben Shewry’s new book Uses for Obsession in one hand, and some delicious, smuggled vegan Australian chocolate in the other. Both came in handy on the five-hour flight, but especially the book, which I opened upon reaching my seat and literally couldn’t stop—wheels up to wheels down. I found it honest and inspiring. Whether or not you work in the restaurant industry, Ben’s insights, words of wisdom, and revelations on life, the hospitality industry, and beyond were so touching and brilliant that I found myself underlining his words with an actual pen, something I haven’t done since high school. Who am I?
What I'm Eating: I can confidently say that I encountered one of the best desserts of my life last month at Attica in Melbourne—a white chocolate panna cotta topped with a sumptuous layer of Sugarbag honey, the most luxurious I will ever have, from native Australian stingless bees. It was probably the closest I will ever get to ingesting liquid gold. Divine.
What's on My Mind: How it feels like a planet is in retrograde every five seconds, and I don’t understand any of what’s actually happening, other than the fact that I now have something to blame every mishap on, but without license to do so because I don’t actually understand what’s going on up there.
What's on My Kitchen Playlist: "Old Recliners" by Role Model. "Crybaby" by SZA. "Make it Up" by BANKS. "Dispose of Me" by Omar Apollo.
What’s in Season: Asparagus, ramps, broccoli, radishes, and artichokes!
What I'm Snacking at the Grocery Store: Popped water lily seeds, especially the vegan cheese flavor by Ashapops. Addicting. Also the taco seasoning-flavored Siete tortilla chips.
What I'm Hoarding in My Pantry: Rancho Meladuco dates, Diaspora Co. pragati turmeric, and Noma Projects corn yuzu hot sauce.
What I'm Cooking: Tandoori Chickpea Tacos with a Sunflower-Scallion Chutney. And you can too…
THE ONE RECIPE YOU SHOULD TRY THIS MONTH
Tandoori Chickpea Tacos with Sunflower-Scallion Chutney
Makes 2-3 tacos
Ingredients
1 15 oz can chickpeas, drained, rinsed, pat completely dry
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Tandoori Masala
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon granulated garlic
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
1/2 teaspoon chili powder
1/2 teaspoon garam masala
1/4 teaspoon fenugreek powder
Kosher salt to taste
Scallion Sunflower Cilantro Chutney
1 inch ginger, peeled
2 tbsp sunflower seeds
1 serrano chile, de-seeded
1/2 cup scallions, sliced
1 bunch cilantro with tender stems, tough stems removed
Juice of 1 lemon
Kosher salt to taste
Tortillas of choice
Pickled cabbage, for garnish
Radishes, sliced, for garnish
Cilantro, roughly torn or chopped for garnish
Scallions, julienned or sliced thinly
Coconut yogurt for drizzling
Lime wedges for serving
Method
Make chutney by combining all ingredients in a high speed blender. Add a splash of water as needed to help everything come together. Adjust with salt and lemon to taste.
In a small bowl, combine the spices for the tandoori masala together until well mixed. Set aside.
Heat olive oil in a medium sauté pan over medium heat. When the oil shimmers, add the chickpeas and cook undisturbed for a few minutes.
Now, sauté the chickpeas, moving them around in the pan until they start to turn golden, for about five minutes.
Add the tandoori masala to the chickpeas and toss in the pan to incorporate. Sauté until the masala is toasted, for about five minutes over medium heat, stirring consistently until the chickpeas are golden. Adjust with salt to taste. Remove from heat.
Heat tortillas on a griddle or pan. Assemble tacos! First, evenly spread the chutney on the tortilla, and follow with the tandoori chickpeas. Drizzle with coconut yogurt, then add sliced radishes, pickled cabbage, scallions, cilantro, and a squeeze of lime. Enjoy immediately.
