Welcome to Provocateurs at Play: a new column from CULTURED’s Style Editor-at-Large Jason Bolden. The preeminent stylist and creative director has earned a reputation as a conscientious interrogator of the fashion world's norms and expectations—working with the likes of Nicole Kidman and Michael B. Jordan to create intimately researched and refreshing moments that keep us hungry for more. His new column, which spotlights enduring talents from across the industry whose ingenuity and wit offer endless inspiration, is no different. Here, Bolden sits down with Tory Burch—one of his longtime idols and frequent collaborators—ahead of her highly anticipated New York Fashion Week presentation, for a conversation about playlists and perpetual reinvention.
When Jason Bolden joined the CULTURED masthead as style editor-at-large, there was one person at the top of his call list: Tory Burch. "Tory and I formally met at her foundation's Embrace Ambition Summit, where I had the honor of interviewing Diane von Fürstenberg," Bolden recalls. "Since then we've shared many of those quintessential New York moments—run-ins on the street that turn into perfect catch-ups."
At the center of the regular collaborators’ history—which spans red carpets, Met Galas, and film festivals—is a shared admiration. The Tory Burch woman (of whom Bolden is a frequent architect) is adaptable, elegant, and headstrong—qualities reflected as much in Burch herself as in the Jason Bolden clients who wear her designs. "Tory’s unwavering voice when it comes to change–be it in humanity, design, or style–has not only made her one of the pillars in my fashion life," he says, "but the embodiment of the spirit of this column: a true provocateur at play."
Tory Burch: Jason, where are you?
Jason Bolden: I'm on a boat in Corsica right now. I'm supposed to be having a proper two-week vacation, but I've worked every single day. Story of our lives. First of all, I want to say thank you. You're one of the pillars in my fashion life, and when I got this opportunity, you were the first person I wanted to call. Our relationship has stretched over a very long period, and it touches on more than just fantastic clothes and trends and things like that. We've talked about family, friends, politics, business… and on and on. You're someone that I look to as a leader, I just want to start there. Our relationship is way deeper than the fantastic collections you put out.
Burch: I feel the same way. And congratulations—what a great thing, this new chapter.
Bolden: Speaking of collections, one thing I want the world to know is that you have the best playlists—the best taste in music. It is so sick, so out-of-the-box, and yet everything about it is so you. Do you ever weave any of that music into your clothes?
Burch: I'm obsessed with music and people always think that's weird. Maybe they don’t expect me to be, I'm not sure. But I've been surrounded by music my whole life. To your point, it's very diverse and always playing. We just launched our new fragrance—Sublime, with Kendall Jenner—and we asked Bakar to do a cover song for us. And, of course, I love rap and hip hop.
Bolden: You're so ahead of the curve. One of the first times I met you, you mentioned these underground musicians and I was like, how does, huh, what? It's just part of your DNA.
Burch: When my boys were babies—probably Arrow's age. How old is Arrow?
Bolden: He's three now.
Burch: So, since they were three I’ve been teaching them about music. Now, they keep it real with me and teach me about music. It's great to have that 20-year-old perspective.
Bolden: With the fragrance launch, were there any other artists—musical or otherwise—that got you into the world of that scent? How did you decide the people you wanted to embody it?
Burch: During the actual shoot with Kendall, we listened to the music from Twin Peaks. It was very nostalgic. Of course, Kendall has this inner beauty, so I wanted to harness that. And I love Bakar’s music, so I wanted to work with him.
Bolden: I love that. Speaking of things that feel new with a splash of nostalgia, let's talk about this next collection. Should I be expecting classic Tory? Am I getting a little taste of seasons one through five, or is this a whole new place you're going? Where are you taking me?
Burch: I had to marry my husband to get him to come on board as CEO, and five years ago I did that. It’s given me the opportunity to rethink everything, which is so rare. It's been a process. Ten years ago, I loved what we were doing, but it didn't necessarily feel like a personal reflection of how I see women in the way it does today. Over the last five years, we've been having a dialogue. I think you'll see a new facet of that dialogue in this show.
Bolden: The last two collections blew me away. They felt even more personal, like they showed more of the Tory that I know. I would be texting you and your team, like: “I need this right now.” I’d get so mad if somebody else wore it before me. [Bolden laughs] It’s interesting to see that you continue to be excited about developing new collections.
Burch: I have never felt more excited about work than I am now. Our company is still young. It's only 20—so even though we want to channel who we were, we’re shaping a new iteration of ourselves.
Bolden: There's still that fundamental thing, that really strong point of view. It shows through—even in the windows of your stores. It's sophisticated, it’s modern, it's chic, she's smart. I love that it's not this constant chase, you know, like what is everyone else doing? I love that I can still see who you are when I walk past your store. I was just walking down the street with Cynthia Erivo in Paris, and we were looking in your window. Cynthia was like, “Isn't that dress so…”— it's so nice to hear my client say that. “Isn't that dress so…” and the follow-up is: “me?”
Burch: That is so sweet.
Bolden: It’s a result of how grounded you are. That hasn’t changed, but the women you design for have evolved.
Burch: That must be important for you too—you don't want to be put in a box. Personal expression doesn't mean you’re creating what you would personally wear—it's more about how you see things. I'm sure you think about that when you style people as well.
Bolden: Speaking of stylists, I secretly ask myself this question all the time. What's your favorite Tory x Jason moment? I know mine.
Burch: When you took our dress and wrapped a headscarf around Cynthia Erivo, I thought it was brilliant. I was starstruck looking at her—she has such a power to her. An inner, quiet power. I look for that in women. She looked spell bounding.
Bolden: I think that was Venice, right? She loved that look. It’s still on her mood board for Wicked. That goes in my top three. My favorite was Sasha Lane at the Met. That lace, that scalloping…
Burch: And her hair. That was incredible. She took this uber-couture lace and made it so cool.
Bolden: Those moments for me are like my young queer gay boy fantasy [Bolden laughs] come to life. Going to the Met and getting to work with someone who is completely open—there’s nothing like that for me. You're part of those fantasies that came to life.
Burch: How long have you been styling, Jason?
Bolden: I have no clue.
Burch: But you had a vintage shop.
Bolden: I had a store in Soho. It happened by accident. I didn't know it could be a job. Then one day I got a write-up, and the emails started. Eventually I ended up where I am now.
Burch: I love the way you work because your passion is so clear. You’ve styled a lot of men too—how would you describe the difference?
Bolden: When I first got into the business, I was known for styling women, but I’d been doing men for so long. Early in my career, dressing guys felt very robotic. Now guys are completely excited by styling—they're heavily interested. I think the difference is less about gender today than it is personality. Some clients are very hands-off.
Burch: And some get really involved.
Bolden: Yeah, I think of people like Michael B. Jordan. He loves a mood board because he comes from a director's point of view—he wants to know the story. Someone like Nicole Kidman will say, “It's all you baby, go.” It really, really, really depends. It’s interesting—someone like a Michael B. Jordan, a Ryan Coogler, they create these worlds out of fashion that become these bonus moments for their characters. You must have to do a lot of that too—playing the director when you’re creating these shows, right? When I leave a good presentation, it feels like I just watched the trailer of a beautiful movie. You build all these sets out. Do you ever look at yourself as a kind of director?
Burch: Yeah, twice a year. [Bolden and Burch laugh] When you do a mood board for a client, where do you start?
Bolden: Let’s take Michael B. Jordan again. Something about him reminds me of Sidney Poitier in To Sir, with Love—how smooth Sidney was, his ease and luxuriousness. So I start there. Then I look at other films, I go to Instagram and look up references, research current collections. I begin putting things all over my office, and I kind of fall in love with this person. Then, you have to hope that your client loves it [Bolden laughs]. So it's creating this other dimension of my client.
Burch: I was an art history major, so I love the crossover of art, music, literature, and history with fashion. I also know that you love art. How does it tie into what you do?
Bolden: My grandmother used to tell me: “Jason, you can have beautiful clothes, but you need a beautiful space for them to exist in.” It’s all about a lifestyle, and she embedded that in me as a teenager.
I recently celebrated my 12th wedding anniversary—one of my first wedding gifts was a Keith Haring painting. I started off collecting a lot of blue-chip artists, because I thought that was the right thing to do. I had some Keith Haring, Joan Mitchell, and a really small Picasso. When I moved to LA, that was my real introduction. A friend there was like, “Hey, you need to really take a beat and stop diving into heavy blue-chip. I want to introduce you to brown and black artists.” I got introduced to people like Amy Sherald, Kerry James Marshall, and Titus Kaphar. I fell in love with them, and part of that was because I could actually have conversations with them.
It felt a bit more personal—especially since it’s a world that is notoriously very hard for people of color, or for anybody without a particular pedigree, to get into. I have a really booming art collection now, and I love it. I visit RISD, Yale, and I look at the kids’ work. I try to invest in them in a different type of way. It’s also changed my lifestyle, as my grandmother described it. I see my son walk through the house and point at an Amoako [Boafo] or a Kwame [Otis Kwame Kye Quaicoe] and say things about it that I’d never expect.
Burch: How is styling Arrow? Is he a willing subject?
Bolden: He's so willing. He doesn't like tank tops, and you know, I live in California now, so that’s a stance.
Burch: I love that he doesn't like tank tops. [Burch and Bolden laugh]
Bolden: What are three things you want people to know about the reality of your business? People ask me all the time: Jason, how do I do X or start Y? I always tell everybody to study, study, study, study, and take in everything they can.
Burch: Being intellectually curious is really important. So is celebrating the people around you. One of my best talents is surrounding myself with incredible people; I've always been good at that. Letting them shine—because you want them to feel validated, and because they deserve it—really makes the difference in a company culture. I’m also fanatically obsessed with quality and craftsmanship at the same time as I value surprise and delight. How do we give our customer something totally outstanding without an uber-luxury price point? For me, it's about being open to innovation and reinvention.
Bolden: Thank you so much for my first interview. We did it!
Burch: Oh, you're so welcome. I will see you at the show.
